Tuesday, October 19, 2010

Around Makerere and Budo Field Trip

Most mornings Mrs. M drops me off at Makerere where the MUYU team apartment and her office are located. The iconic clock tower building is situated in the center of the university, which started out as a technical school established by the British in 1922, and then became an independent institution in 1970.

The stairwell to the MUYU apartment, where the rest of the team stays. After a cup or two of instant coffee, we usually make the 20 minute walk to Mulago alongside the crowded roads with asphalt crumbling at the edges and a footpath worn into the red mud. Half-way to the hospital, there is a giant intersection called Wandegeya. There, matatus amass, and their conductors shout out destinations while harassing pedestrians and promising "you come, we go."


Our program periodically has cultural field trips, most recently we went to the site of the Bugandan king's (the Kabaka's) coronation, which takes place in this grass hut. The site is called Budo.


While at Budo, we also visited with a traditional healer, or a "witch doctor" as they are called in the local newspapers these days (video of our meeting will be posted soon). This tree is the sacred site where the healer practices, chosen because it predates the kabakas. He noted how the earth continues to wash away from the tree, and that is why its ancient roots can now be seen. A self-proclaimed Catholic, who still attends mass each Sunday, the healer described for our team how he receives all his knowledge from the spirits of the forest and only treats illnesses that Mulago fails to cure (more details to come with video footage).

At Budo, there are a number of holy shrines that would be easily missed without a guide to point them out. Trees along side this field are thought to be filled with the spirits of ancestors that prepare a new kabaka for his upcoming responsibilities to rule his land. Inside the tall plants at the right hand side of this photo is a rock believed to pour out water when an old king dies and new one is crowned. There are only a few thin tree branches corralling it as a place of significance.

A produce market in Wandegeya, where you can buy the most amazing avocado for 500 Ugandan Schillings, or about 20 cents.


One of the many varieties of banana found in Uganda, the famous matooke. Steamed and mashed up with ground nut sauce on top, it's an acquired taste for most foreigners, but a classic favorite amongst the locals. Along the roads and in the villages, it's easy to spot a fearless cyclist powering his way forward with bushels of matooke on the back of a heavy metal bike.

1 comment:

  1. Thanks so much for sharing. I've really enjoyed these posts.

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